The most useful DSLR feature? HIGHLIGHT OVER-EXPOSURE WARNING

jake-peavy-highlight-over-exposure-warning.jpg

One of the best features on a Digital SLR camera is the highlight over-exposure warning. TURN IT ON!

There is NO feature on my digital camera that I use to get the ideal exposure in my digital photography more than the Highlight Over-Exposure Warning, especially when dealing with difficult exposure situations. I use it more than I use the lightmeter.

With any digital camera, the worst thing you can do is over-expose your subject. Pure white in any digital photo is a lack of information… whereas under-exposure is a lot of information. So we want to be most careful with the highlights (right side of the histogram)… and make sure there’s not too many or that they don’t occur in important areas of our photographs.

It’s very difficult, if not impossible, to add detail that isn’t there and keep your photo looking natural.

So if your camera has this feature… turn it on! it takes a little bit of getting used to. It has even has been described as “annoying” by people. But annoying is what you want, I like having that annoying reminder blinking in my face to remind me to watch my highlight exposure.

Here is a simulation of what it would look like in camera… Red areas in the picture shows that certain areas are PURE WHITE and have absolutely no detail there. (Of course, your camera will display image in color)

Example of what your Highlight Over-Exposure Warning might look like on your screen (I chose a B&W image with red warning so it would stand out better) Any detail that is over-exposed will show up in your review photo on your camera’s LCD as a blinking contrasty color. My Canon cameras blink black in any areas that are going to be rendered as detail-less white in my images.
When the blinking area is too big and / or covers very important areas of the photograph, simply change your exposure to give less light until the blinking goes away (stop down, choose a faster shutter speed, reduce your ISO or use the Exposure Compensation control)

This is one of the easiest things about digital photography and using manual exposure (or even exposure compensation using automatic modes).

To me it’s simple… set the exposure to where I think it should be based on my light-meter or even by intuition. Then adjust your exposure with shutter speed / aperture / or ISO until the white high-light areas of your photo just start to blink…  then I go 1/3 stop less exposure than that to guarantee I will have some detail in there.

Of course not all pictures are the same, and you do have to learn to read your scene and figure out what areas you want to be near pure white. Of course some photos I am more than happy to let the pure whites blow out.

Here’s a photo where I didn’t have any choice but to let some of the highlights blow out… if I would have tried to keep the white uniform from over-exposing, his face would have been too dark, so I gave enough exposure to make sure the face was exposed properly and let the highlights fall where they may.

It’s the exact opposite thing for those of us who shoot Black & White Negative Film, where our goal is to make sure we give our film enough exposure to get detail in the shadows, then fix the highlights in processing and in the darkroom. With negative the rule is “Expose for the shadows… develop for the highlights”

Of course… you should always learn multiple ways to calculate exposure, especially since this method would be VERY difficult in the unfortunate even you break your LCD screen or you get transported back into time and HAVE to use film cameras!

www.robertoliverphoto.com

SLOW DOWN - Less really does equal more

I set up my tripod in front of a rapidly changing scene… The thick clouds made the scene incredibly dark, but magnificent. To the West, a small glimpse of a spectacular sunset was trying to force its way through the clouds. As the storm clouds parted, I waited for a shaft of light to strike a mountain that was shrouded in clouds. And I waited… and it kept getting darker. And darker…  Me and my camera just sat there waiting, taking in the beauty of the scene… and waited.

The scene that never happened... but it happened.  I never pay much attention to when anything happens. It's happening. Who cares when, as long as it happens" - Chris Cornell

The scene that never happened... but it happened.  

I never pay much attention to when anything happens. It's happening. Who cares when, as long as it happens" - Chris Cornell

 

I took my time and tried to find the absolute best photographic image from this scene... The Black and White shot I was hoping for never materialized, so I removed my view camera and put on my DSLR to at least document the scene, after the best light faded, to remind me of the shot that never quite materialized. This is one of those rare times that I regretted only carrying black and white film for my 4x5 camera. EXPOSURE - 1/30th @ f4 - ISO 100 on a tripod mounted Canon 7D. 

As I stood there behind my tripod waiting for the light to strike the mountain I was focused on (The black and white scene I pre-visualized never materialized, but the color photographic possibility was absolutely incredible)… during the best light of the evening for a color photographer, a rental car pulled up and out pops two photographers with their pro DSLR’s and pro zoom lenses and no tripod. Did I mention it was almost dark. They proceeded to walk around the area and point the cameras at points of the landscape. This went on for a few minutes… they talked to me about my wooden camera for a minute then got in their car and sped off down the road. I can’t imagine that the photos they took were as good as they could have been if they would have taken their time. Considering how much they probably spent on their plane tickets, rental car, hotels, gas and their camera kits, wouldn’t it be worth it to take a few extra seconds to make sure they are getting everything they can out of the scene in front of them?

If the scene is worth photographing… isn’t it worth photographing right?

“The ‘machine-gun’ approach to photography – by which many negatives are made with the hope that one will be good – is fatal to serious results.” – Ansel Adams

Look at the photographers whose work you admire… Did they achieve their work through “Spray and Pray” methods? Or do you think they were very deliberate about each shot, painstakingly studying the scene, composing and metering. Most inexperienced photographers seem to think QUANTITY over QUALITY…

I read a lot about the master photographers and their techniques, and have had the pleasure of watching some legendary landscape photographers at work. They all have one thing in common, they are very precise and methodical in their practice. To the pros IF it’s worth shooting, it’s worth shooting right!

Most pros I know won’t waste time and energy on photos they know won’t be keepers. Is every shot they take a masterpiece?  of course not! But they are almost always very deliberate in their work.

I’ve also watched hordes of amateurs clicking away furiously at scenes the second they point their camera at something. Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Click… Brain Lapse Photography… (get it?) it’s kind of like Time Lapse Photography, but change the first word and it becomes Brain Lapse Photography… get it?  Click… Click… Click… haha

There is nothing wrong with taking bad photographs, as long as you study your mistakes and investigate why that image isn’t successful. But if you are Shotgun Photographing, will you really be able to look at all of your rejects to determine what could have been done differently/better? The best way to improve is to make mistakes and learn from them… it’s doesn’t do any good to keep making the same mistakes over again.

“If I shoot enough photos… I’m bound to get something!” – Anonymous Photographer

STOP! SLOW DOWN! Learn to study the scene and find the absolutely best image possible.

  1. Look at your scene carefully. Study it for photographic possibilities. Look up… Look down… Look both ways before pressing the shutter. Did you look behind you?
  2. Set up your tripod (depending on your subject, but especially in low light) and carefully compose your scene. Move your eye around the viewfinder, carefully looking around the frame for distracting elements. Is anything unwanted poking into the sides of the frame?
  3. Carefully look at your scene for exposure problems. Is there going to be any parts that will be too dark? too light?  Is there too much contrast in the scene?
  4. Carefully meter the scene, being especially careful not to let your highlights become over-exposed.
  5. Apply any contrast control methods as needed….  Graduated Neutral Density filter? Bracketed exposures for combining layers in Photoshop? Zone System? or even….  uhh… hack… gasp… H-D-R… (that was hard to say)
  6. Take your picture. If it is a slow shutter speed, are you using a cable release? self-timer?
  7. Double check your settings, before putting away your gear or changing scenes. DSLR users study your Histogram (accurate) and the image on your LCD screen (not always accurate). Film users need to double-check their meters and exposure settings.
  8. Keep looking… you’re not done just because that shots ‘in the can’ or because the sun went down.  Look around for new possibilities. Look up… Look down… Look both ways before packing up. Did you look behind you?
  9. Most importantly, make sure to carefully analyze your results to see what you could have done differently to improve your photos.

Here’s a great quote from one of my favorite photographers….

“Years ago, I had students interested in learning large format photography after seeing my work. Some believed that the magic was in the format, and wanted to move on from the 35mm or 120 cameras that they were using.

 

My first assignment was always to have them, with their roll film cameras, expose a maximum of five frames in a day of shooting. It was a revelation to them; how could they spend a day exposing only five frames and get anything worthwhile? Soon, they learned it was the only way to get what they wanted; a lesson of slowing down and being selective.” – Merg Ross

Perhaps on your next photography outing, apply Merg’s assignment philosophy and limit your shooting to 5 exposures, you might be surprised to find out that LESS really is MORE!

What's in my bag?

Thought it would be fun to share what goes into my backpack for shooting with my 4×5 camera when I know I’m going to venture away from the car…..

Kelty Redwing 5100 Backpack
MountainSmith Kit-Cube case for lighter weight trips (3-4 lenses) 
LowePro PRI Medium Format insert when weight isn't a consideration (holds all six lenses) 
Feisol Carbon Fiber Tripod or Bogen Studio Tripod with 3 way geared head for close to car

4×5 Chamonix View Camera
Full lens kit (75mm, 90mm, 150mm, 210mm, 300mm, 400mm)
Lightweight Lens kit (90mm, 150mm, 300mm)
Spot Meter (extra battery)
FIlter Case with assorted filters and Step rings
Dark cloth
Focusing Loop
lens cloth
Dust Brush
Rocket Bulb Blower
Cable releases (backups)
Tripod Quick release plate
Spare Ground glass x2 (protected inside of a film holder box) 
Lens wrench
utility knife
Sheet film holders (2 shots per holder) or Grafmatic Backs
Ruler (for measuring Bellows extension factor)
Head Lamp
Space Blanket sleeping bag (emergency)
Map/Compass/GPS (ever since I got lost in Joshua Tree)
sheet of Tyvek for ground cloth
Emergency Whistle
Note Book & pencil
USB charger for phone/electronics
Water
ClifBars
First Aid Kit
Water Purification Tabs
GoPro & Digital Camera can be replaced by iPhone 7+ to save weight. (I've pretty much switched over to the iPhone 7+) 

Why a Kelty Redwing 5100 instead of a dedicated camera backpack?  Comfort and weight!!!    The Redwing is more than 8 pounds lighter than my old dedicated camera backpack… and SO much more comfortable!

I can easily turn this into a quick overnight kit by taking out one of the packs of film holders (and reloading in the field) and inserting a sleeping bag, pad, food (can even fit a small ultralight stove/fuel) and a backpackers poncho which turns into a shelter.

I can also trim this kit down to fit into a Kelty Super Tioga External Frame backpacking pack for up to 5 nights in the wilderness without having to resupply. Total weight of camera gear w/ film 18-20 pounds. 
My ultralight backpacking kit (everything else I need to survive for days in the field) comes in around 20 pounds. 
 

Here is my bag with a 4 lens kit: 75mm, 90mm, 180mm and 300mm. I have since replace the 180mm with a 150mm and a 210mm. 

Here is my bag with a 4 lens kit: 75mm, 90mm, 180mm and 300mm. I have since replace the 180mm with a 150mm and a 210mm. 

The Kelty Redwing 5100 and it's load ready for a trip! 

The Kelty Redwing 5100 and it's load ready for a trip! 

PHOTOGRAPHY – IT’S ABOUT BEING IN THE RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME!

 

PHOTOGRAPHY – IT’S ABOUT BEING IN THE RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME!

Posted on July 16, 2012

www.robertoliver.com

Whether you photograph sports, wildlife or landscapes… Chances are the most important thing for a successful photograph is being in the right place at the right time. It doesn’t matter whether you are shooting Nikon or Canon… film or digital… 35mm or Large Format…

“Sometimes I do get to places just when God’s ready to have somebody click the shutter.” -Ansel Adams

And sometimes the right time is in less than ideal conditions. So many photographers put their gear away on days when the weather isn’t ‘perfect’… those are usually the days when my camera is just starting to come out. I can’t count how many times I’ve seen photographers pack up and leave before the light even starts to get good or because the weather isn’t perfect. 

Clearing Spring Storm - Yosemite National Park

Clearing Spring Storm - Yosemite National Park

 

This is a great example of being in the right place at the right time. I stood in front of this scene for hours, making many different images of the changing scene. It was very cold and very drizzly. I watched numerous ‘photographers’ drive up, roll down the window half-way and take a snap shot, then roll up the window and quickly drive away. This is still one of my favorite landscape images and it shocks me that over the course of a couple of hours of shooting, NO other photographers were near me in one of the most photographed spots in the world. A spring storm lifts from Yosemite Valley. Photographed by Robert Oliver with a 4×5 view camera on B&W film.

 

On a recent trip to Death Valley, my father-in-law Frank and his brother-in-law Wally were making fun of me for wishing for some weather. When we arrived it was blue skies and sunny… not to mention extremely windy. Of course when we were out exploring the area the following day and it started to rain, I didn’t hear the end of it. But I was sure happy! Clouds and weather add drama to many scenes that would normally make only make an average shot. Look at the work of any of the master landscape photographers and you will notice the weather is a huge part of many of their photos. Ansel Adams considered himself more of a weather photographer, than a landscape photographer. 

Rainbow over Shoshone - Shoshone, CA

Rainbow over Shoshone - Shoshone, CA

 

After a couple of days hanging out around Death Valley, everything came together. This brief ‘storm’ brought drama to an otherwise fairly boring scene over Dublin Gulch in Shoshone, CA on the western border of Death Valley National Park.

There have been numerous time where I won’t make any pictures when visiting a scenic location. Not because the location isn’t photogenic, but because the timing is not right. Sometimes it’s the angle of the light, sometimes it’s the lack of clouds. It’s frustrating to travel somewhere and not make any pictures, but sometimes I can just feel that it would be a waste of time and energy to simply document a scene. I simply add all the information to my ‘notebook’ and plan on coming back again… hopefully when the timing is right.

Ibex Dunes - Death Valley National Park

Ibex Dunes - Death Valley National Park

To me, the best time to photograph sand dunes is when the sun is very low in the sky…. meaning sunrise or sunset. Capturing this shot at the right time meant a LONG walk back in the dark across a VERY big dark desert. But it was worth it to me!